Gardening isn’t exactly my forte.

Hello everyone! Heather from The Heathered Nest here. While many of you at Remodelaholic likely possess impressive green thumbs, I, unfortunately, do not share that talent. However, while I might not excel at tending to a garden, I consider myself quite skilled at enjoying the fruits (and vegetables!) that emerge from one. I’m a big fan of all edible garden goodies!

Another thing I’m a big fan of? Pinterest.

Sometimes, I enjoy browsing Pinterest while I eat. Just the other day, as I was having lunch (which involved finishing off the last row of Oreos), I noticed a trend. Pinterest seemed to be in full bloom! It was overflowing with images of flowers, growing plants, and everything else that requires a green thumb. It was both inspiring and slightly terrifying for someone like me, whose thumbs are more black than green (and not just from Oreo dust!).

Thankfully, we at The Heathered Nest do possess some skills. Seeing all that edible garden inspiration on Pinterest sparked an idea: to build a DIY vertical garden! And if you’re a gardening pro but struggle with basic tools, perhaps we could strike a deal. How about some fresh herbs from your new vertical garden in exchange for this helpful tutorial? Sound good?

DIY Suspended Vertical Garden: Grow Up, Not Out!

Are you short on space but long on gardening dreams? A suspended vertical garden is the perfect solution! This DIY project is not only a fantastic way to cultivate herbs, flowers, or even small vegetables, but it also adds a unique and stylish touch to your outdoor living space. With this step-by-step guide, even those with limited gardening experience can create a stunning vertical display.

This guide provides clear instructions and helpful tips for constructing a durable and visually appealing suspended vertical garden. Whether you’re aiming to create a thriving herb garden just steps from your kitchen or a vibrant floral cascade to brighten your patio, this project offers endless possibilities. Let’s transform your small space into a flourishing green oasis!

Supplies You’ll Need

• (2) 4x4x10 pressure treated posts: These will form the main support structure for your garden.
• (4) bags Quikrete: For securely setting the posts in the ground.
• Line Level: Essential for ensuring your posts are perfectly vertical.
• Wire: Galvanized or stainless steel wire is recommended for durability and weather resistance.
• S hooks or carabiners: For easily hanging the baskets or buckets.
• Baskets or buckets (we used these 2.5 quart metal pails, approx 7″ diameter, 5″ high): Choose containers that complement your garden’s aesthetic.
• Drill: For creating pilot holes and securing screws.
• Turnbuckle: To tighten the wire and keep it taut.
• Screw cups: For attaching the wire securely to the posts.
• Galvanized screws: To prevent rust and corrosion.
• 1/2″ galvanized pipe: To create a cross brace at the top of the structure.
• (2) 3/4″ galvanized pipe stands: To hold the cross brace in place.
• Lagbolts to bolt to deck: Only needed if attaching the garden to a deck.
• Scrap 2×4 or other lumber to brace posts: Essential for keeping the posts plumb while the concrete sets.

Tools You’ll Need

• Shovel or post hole digger
• Level
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Wrench (for tightening turnbuckles)
• Safety glasses
• Gloves

How to Create a Suspended Vertical Garden: A Step-by-Step Guide

We constructed our vertical garden using 4×4 posts, galvanized pipe, and wire, attaching it securely to our deck. This design can be easily adapted to suit your specific needs and location, whether you want it standing on a deck or in your yard. We’ll walk you through the basics of our process and offer suggestions for modifications along the way.

Creating a vertical garden is a rewarding project that brings beauty and functionality to any space. Follow these steps to build your own suspended oasis:

1.) Create a Plan: Visualize Your Vertical Garden

Determine the desired width and height of your vertical garden. Ours measures approximately 7 feet tall by 6 feet wide. Consider the available space and the types of plants you wish to grow when planning your garden’s dimensions. Sketching a rough plan can help visualize the final product and ensure you have enough space for each plant.

Think about the number of tiers you want and the spacing between them. This will affect how many plants you can accommodate and the overall aesthetic of your garden. Remember to account for the mature size of your plants when deciding on spacing.

2.) Dig the Post Holes (If Necessary): Laying the Foundation

Grab your shovel and/or post hole digger and get to work. If you’re building on top of an existing structure, you get to skip this part (lucky!). This is the most labor-intensive part of this project. And if you’re not going to attach this structure to the side of a deck, similar to what we did, you’ll want those post holes to be even bigger (the appropriate size of your holes will really depend on the desired height yours will be as well…consult the Quikrete bag and other sources to be sure your specific plan is on target).

Dig two holes, each at least 24 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter, for your posts. Ensure the holes are spaced according to your planned width. If you’re building on an existing concrete surface, you can skip this step and use post bases instead. Securely anchoring the posts is crucial for the stability of your vertical garden.

3.) Place Posts in Holes, Brace, and Plumb: Ensuring Vertical Stability

Now, stand your posts in the holes and brace them with scrap lumber to keep them upright (plumb) while the concrete sets. Use a level to ensure each post is perfectly vertical. Secure the braces in two directions to prevent the posts from leaning from side to side or front to back.

Take your time during this step, as perfectly plumb posts are essential for a stable and aesthetically pleasing vertical garden.

4.) Set Concrete in the Post Holes: Creating a Solid Base

Now it’s time to set the posts using concrete. We used Quikrete. Follow the instructions on whatever brand you go with as far as determining how much you’ll need, and getting the concrete to set appropriately.

Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions and pour it into the holes around the posts. Ensure the concrete fills the holes completely and is packed firmly to eliminate air pockets. Use a trowel to smooth the surface of the concrete, creating a neat finish.

5.) Wait for the Concrete to Cure: Patience is Key

Gardening, NOR patience, are my strong suits. But you’ll have to wait as long as is required per your concrete instructions to allow your posts to completely set, and the concrete to cure. We’ll be putting some stress and tension on these posts as we rig up our wire system, so you don’t want to move forward before the concrete can hold up to the task.

Allow the concrete to cure completely before proceeding to the next step. This typically takes 24-48 hours, depending on the type of concrete used. Resist the temptation to rush this step, as the concrete needs time to reach its full strength.

6.) Install Lag Bolts (If Attaching to a Deck): Additional Security

If you’ll be attaching your garden to an existing deck, like ours is, you’ll want to complete this step. If not, you can move to the next step. We used two lag bolts on each post to help anchor the posts to the deck. The more anchored and secure the posts, the less likely your wire system will over-stress your posts.

Drill pilot holes through the posts and into the deck. Insert lag bolts into the pilot holes and tighten them securely. This will provide additional stability and prevent the garden from tipping over. If you’re not attaching the garden to a deck, skip this step.

7.) Install a Cross Brace: Maintaining Structural Integrity

Full disclosure here…we installed the wires first, but it actually bent the posts in too far and we could not get the wires tight…so we installed this 1/2″ galvanized pipe at the top to keep the posts in place. You don’t necessarily need to use pipe for the cross brace. If you wanted to use another 4×4, you could do that instead.

Adding a cross brace between the posts at the top of the structure will prevent them from bending inward when the wires are tightened. This can be achieved using a 1/2″ galvanized pipe or another 4×4 piece of lumber. Secure the cross brace to the posts using galvanized screws.

Use 3/4″ pipe stands installed on either post and then cut the 1/2″ pipe to length and install between the pipe stands. We used 3/4″ pipe stands so that the 1/2″ pipe would slide into the pipe stands…if you used 1/2″ pipe stands the 1/2″ pipe would need to be screwed into the pipe stand and that would be much harder to install.

8.) Determine Desired Height for Rows of Wire and Mark Posts: Planning the Planting Layout

Take a look at the size of your planting buckets, then at the overall size of your frame. How many planters will you be hanging? Use these details to plan out where to anchor your wires to the frame.

Decide on the desired height for each row of wire and mark the posts accordingly. Consider the size of your planting containers and the types of plants you will be growing when determining the spacing between rows. Use a measuring tape and level to ensure the marks are evenly spaced and level.

We decided to do four rows of wire, each with a total of four hanging planter buckets.

We started simply by eyeballing where we wanted the top row to hang. Then did some handy math to make sure the four wires would be evenly spaced along the height of our posts. We penciled in the location for the anchors along the post.

9.) Pre-drill Holes for Hooks and Screw Them into One Post: Preparing the Wire Anchors

Pre-drill pilot holes at the marked locations on one of the posts. Screw the screw cups into the pilot holes. These will serve as anchors for the wire.

10.) Measure Location for Corresponding Hooks on Opposite Post: Achieving Level Rows

Tie a string around the hook you just installed and pull it over to the other post. Use a line level to get the string nice and straight and then mark the post where the hook should go. If you don’t have a line level, a standard level can be used instead (as in image below), it’s just a little harder, in my opinion.

11.) Screw in Hooks on Second Post: Completing the Wire Framework

Once you know where the first hook goes on that second post, simply measure up the same distance and install the four hooks on this post.

Repeat the process of pre-drilling and installing screw cups on the second post, ensuring they are level with the screw cups on the first post. Using a line level is crucial for achieving perfectly level rows.

12.) Make Loop on One Side of Wire: Creating the Hanging System

Another view of the loop…

Create a loop at one end of the wire using a cable clamp. Secure the loop to one of the screw cups on the first post. Ensure the loop is tight and secure.

13.) Attach Turnbuckle: Tensioning the Wire

On opposite pole, make another loop on the wire and use a turnbuckle to tighten wire.

Open the turnbuckle about 90% and attach it to the hook. Then hook your wire loop onto the turnbuckle hook and pull it as tight as you can secure it with the wire clamp. Now close the turnbuckle (by tightening the screws) til the wire is nice and tight.

Thread the wire through the corresponding screw cup on the second post. Create another loop at the end of the wire and attach it to the turnbuckle. Tighten the turnbuckle to tension the wire, ensuring it is taut and level.

14.) Repeat the Process: Creating All the Planting Rows

Repeat this process to attach all additional wires to your frame.

Repeat steps 12 and 13 for all remaining rows of wire, creating a framework for your planting containers. Ensure all wires are taut and level.

15.) Plant: Bringing Your Garden to Life

Plant!!!

Many hands make for light work, so we enlisted our pint-size troops to help with this step. Make sure you have adequate drainage in your pots. And we even put some weed barrier at the bottom of ours to hopefully cut down on soil leaking onto the deck.

Fill your planting containers with potting soil and plant your chosen herbs, flowers, or vegetables. Ensure the containers have adequate drainage to prevent waterlogging. Hang the containers from the wires using S hooks or carabiners.

And that’s that! Enjoy those literal fruits of your labor! And if your mint harvest is abundant, send some our way. I do love some fresh mint.

The hubs can make a mean mojito with mint.

Hopefully, this year, I’ll even be able to grow some of our own. Thyme will tell (couldn’t help myself).

Either way though, we’ll sit out here on our deck, taking in some summer wind and sunshine. Would love to show you round our outdoor space! We finished it recently…another full-on DIY project, from the vintage tin can chandelier, to the pergola, outdoor curtains, and stenciled rugs.

Til we meet again, friends…big cheers, mojito in hand.

More High-Impact Outdoor Planter Ideas

DIY tall concrete planter

Paris-inspired tall wooden planter

DIY elevated planter box

Gothic arch style garden arbor (with raised garden boxes)